As I cycled up the Carretera Austral in Chilean Patagonia, there was no shortage of things to marvel at each day that made me forget my exertions. It started in the far south with the discovery that doors to houses, inns, and hotel rooms are unlocked – and many of them don’t even have locks! Then, in this remote and wild corner of the world, I followed the Rio Baker and bivouacked on its banks. This glacier-fed river is so pure that its turquoise color remains bright even on gray days. The « Rio Baker » originates at the outlet of the Bertrand Lake, which in turn is connected to the Carrera Lake, where these incredible and unique “Marble Chapels » are located. « Las Capillas de Mármol » are the result of water erosion on different colored rocks, rich in calcium carbonate and assembled in a complex way over thousands of years of evolution. Access is by small boat from Puerto Rio Tranquillo or by kayak when the water level is not too high. In this way, the cold has advantages not available in summer, when it is less certain that this jewel will be revealed once the ice melts.